FuegoMundo sets every corner of culinary globe alight

 by By John McCurdy, Staff Writer: JMcCurdy@atljewishtimes.com

With its recently-achieved Atlanta Kashruth Commission glatt kosher certification, Sandy Springs hotspot FuegoMundo (roughly “world of fire”) is now ready to serve todo el mundo (“the whole world,” i.e. everybody). For husband-and-wife owners Udi Hershkovitz and Masha Hleap-Hershkovitz, this is just the latest step in perfecting their healthy, wholesome blend of authentic Central and Southern American cuisine.

“We’re a good restaurant – a different concept with excellent food, clean and fresh – which happens to be kosher,” Udi, an Israeli, said.

“Now there’s nobody on Earth who can say they can’t eat here,” Masha, born in Colombia, said with a laugh. “To me, it’s exciting to pull all these elements together, come full-circle, keep it multicultural and make it even more accessible.”

As the story goes, the couple were visiting Panama City on their way to the Canal and a tour of the rainforests when they both tasted wood-fire-grilled food for the first time. They were fresh out of the restaurant business, having just sold their three Subway franchises and sworn off the industry, and Udi immediately wanted back in.

Masha, a state-ranked gymnast in high school, has always been on the cutting edge nutritionally and was appreciative of the simplicity of the dishes while being just as taken by the flavors as her husband, yet remained hesitant. They were on vacation after several years of operating eateries, so it took a few months for her to be ready to jump back in.

“It wasn’t just Udi that convinced me,” she smiled. “It was a very back-to-basics approach to eating and cooking – without preservatives, sauces or any of the fru-fru. I loved that idea, and I realized there were a lot of things I could do vegetarian- and nutritional-wise, and then I got very excited about it.”

They opened in 2009 at The Prado to critical acclaim and enthusiastic customer response, attracting and inviting feedback from folks with social media and keeping them coming back with a unique atmosphere and menu. The interior by first-time designer Masha could easily be mistaken for professional work, sporting a persistent theme with warm reds and yellows, natural bamboo and crisp, modern tables and seating.

In the middle of it all, on display – like “the center of a diamond ring,” as she says – is the grill, powered exclusively by locally-bought oak wood. The churrasco (steak prepared in a style typical of Latin American) or chicken skewers right off the fire are favorites for meat-eaters, while sides like yucca fries, “Fuego chips” (flash-fried green plantains) and rice-substitute quinoa will entice anybody.

The menu is dairy- and (with a few exceptions) gluten-free, composed of only organic ingredients and largely vegan, so the appeal is broad and business is booming. Yet Udi mentions a disappointment they encountered.

“We noticed after being here a year and a half that there was a lot we weren’t capturing,” he said. “We developed a good name and great product, and then we had people frustrated that they couldn’t come in to join us because it’s not kosher. We started noticing that they were wanting it, and sure enough…”

Dinner lines today are regularly out the door, though thankfully a fast, “upscale casual” approach means no one has to be turned away. This is a place for everyone, after all, and it just got even healthier and more welcoming.